Let’s be honest, Chain link fences are the unsung heroes of Utah properties. They aren’t asking for much attention, standing guard around backyards in Salt Lake City, industrial lots in West Valley, or heavy-duty perimeters up in Davis County, usually without complaint. But even the toughest galvanized steel has its limits, especially when facing down our distinct four seasons.
When the “Indestructible” Starts Looking Tired
You know what? It’s easy to ignore a Chain Link Fence until it suddenly becomes a problem. One day it’s fine, and the next, you realize the top rail is sagging like a hammock or the mesh has rust spots that look like they’re spreading faster than a rumor in a small town.
Here’s the thing about chain link: it is incredibly durable, but it’s not invincible. Whether you’re a homeowner in Sandy trying to keep the dog in, or a business owner in Provo securing equipment, the issues are usually the same. The metal gets tired. The ground moves.
We see a lot of “set it and forget it” mentalities regarding fencing, which makes sense because who wants to spend their Saturday inspecting tension bands? But a little bit of maintenance now saves a massive headache—and a lighter wallet—later on.
The Famous “Utah Sag” and Tension Issues
Have you ever looked at a fence and noticed the fabric (that’s the diamond-shaped mesh part) looks loose and baggy? It’s not a good look. In the fencing world, we call this losing tension, but honestly, it just looks sloppy.
This usually happens for two reasons. First, gravity and time are undefeated. Second, and more likely, something has been pushing on it. Maybe it’s snow piling up against it during those heavy heavy winters we get in the benches, or maybe the kids have been using it as a ladder to retrieve a baseball.
Restoring tension isn’t actually that complicated, but it requires a bit of elbow grease.
- Check the Tension Bands: These are the metal strips that wrap around the terminal posts (the end posts). Sometimes the bolts just need a good tightening.
- The Tension Bar: This is the vertical metal flat bar that slides through the last diamonds of the mesh. If this is bent, your whole fence line goes wonky. You might need to replace the bar.
- Come-Along Tool: Pros use a tool called a “come-along” to mechanically pull the fence tight again before bolting it down. It stretches the fabric back to its original, taut glory.
If the fabric is permanently stretched out of shape—like an old sweater—tightening it might not work. In that case, you might need to splice in a new section of mesh. It sounds technical, but it’s really just weaving new wire into the old wire.
Dealing With Bent Top Rails
We see this a lot in Davis County and areas prone to those fierce canyon winds. A tree branch comes down, or maybe a heavy wet snowstorm (the kind we get in March) piles up, and suddenly the top rail is bent like a banana.
The top rail provides the structural spine for the chain link. If it’s compromised, the whole fence loses stability.
Replacing a top rail is actually one of the easier fixes. The rails are joined by sleeves (one end is tapered to fit into the other). You can usually pop the bad section out and slide a new one in. However, if the damage was caused by something heavy crushing it, check the line posts—those are the intermediate posts holding the rail up. If the post cap (the eye-loop thing on top) is cracked, swap that out too.
And speaking of wind, if your fence is covered in privacy slats or a windscreen, it acts like a sail. If you are constantly repairing bent rails, you might need to upgrade to a thicker gauge pipe, something like Schedule 40 pipe, which is much thicker than the standard residential grade.
Rust: The Silent Enemy
Salt Lake County uses a lot of salt on the roads. That salty mist, combined with our wet springs, loves to eat away at metal. While modern chain link is galvanized (coated in zinc) or Vinyl-coated to prevent this, scratches happen. Once the zinc layer is breached, rust sets in.
If you catch it early, you don’t need to replace the whole fence.
- Scrub it down: Use a wire brush to remove the flaky rust.
- Neutralize it: Apply a rust converter. This turns the iron oxide into a stable chemical compound.
- Paint it: Use a zinc-rich cold galvanizing spray paint. It comes in silver to match the fence.
If your fence is Vinyl-coated (usually black or green) and the coating is peeling, that’s a different beast. Moisture gets trapped under the plastic and rots the wire from the inside out. Once you see the wire crumbling inside the plastic casing, it’s time for a replacement.
The Gate That Won’t Latch
Is there anything more annoying than a gate you have to lift and shove just to get it to lock?
In Utah, we deal with frost heave. The ground freezes, expands, and pushes the Concrete footings up or sideways. Then it thaws, and the post settles back down—but rarely in the exact same spot. Over a few years, your gate posts end up slightly out of plumb (not vertically straight).
If the misalignment is minor, you can adjust the hinge bolts. Loosen the top hinge and tighten the bottom one (or vice versa) to tilt the gate back into alignment.
If the post has moved significantly, you’re looking at a bigger job. You might need to dig out the footing and re-set the post in fresh concrete. It’s hard work, but it beats having a gate that blows open every time the wind kicks up.
A Quick Guide: DIY or Call a Pro?
Sometimes you can handle it with a wrench and a free afternoon. Other times, you’re going to wish you had a crew.
| Issue | Difficulty Level | DIY Feasible? | Tools Needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Loose Bolts / Hardware | Easy | Yes | Wrench, pliers |
| Minor Rust Spots | Easy | Yes | Wire brush, spray paint |
| Sagging Gate | Moderate | Yes | Wrench, level, patience |
| Bent Top Rail | Moderate | Yes | Hacksaw, replacement rail |
| Leaning Posts (Concrete issue) | Hard | Maybe | Shovel, concrete mix, bracing |
| Stretching/Re-tensioning Fabric | Hard | No (Usually) | Fence puller, stretcher bar |
The Bottom Tension Wire Solution
Here is a pro tip that saves a lot of hassle for pet owners. If your dog is an escape artist and likes to push under the fence, or if the bottom of the chain link is curled up looking messy, you need a bottom tension wire.
Standard residential fences often skip this to save money. It’s a thick wire that runs along the very bottom of the mesh, pulled tight between the terminal posts. We use “hog rings” to clamp the mesh to this wire. It essentially seals the bottom of the fence without needing a bottom rail (which can be expensive and get bent easily).
If you’re seeing the bottom of your fence flaring out, asking a fencing company to retrofit a tension wire is a cost-effective upgrade that adds years to the fence’s life.
A Note on Morning Glories
I have to mention this because it drives everyone in Salt Lake crazy. Those white funnel-shaped flowers, Morning Glories (field bindweed), love chain link fences. They weave through the diamonds and are incredibly strong.
If you let them go for a season or two, the weight of the vines can actually pull the fence down or warp the mesh. Plus, they trap moisture against the metal, accelerating rust.
Pulling them off by hand is therapeutic for about five minutes, then it becomes a nightmare. If you rip them too hard, you bend the wire. It’s better to cut them at the base, let the vines dry out and turn brittle for a few days, and then pull them off. It saves your fence (and your back).
Getting It Fixed Right
Look, we know that a chain link fence isn’t usually the aesthetic centerpiece of a home, but it serves a vital purpose. It protects your property, keeps your kids and pets safe, and marks your boundaries. When it starts falling apart, it brings down the look and security of the whole place.
Sometimes, a few repairs are all you need to get another decade out of your fence. Other times, if the posts are rusted through at the ground level or the fabric is brittle, it might be more cost-effective to start fresh rather than throwing money at a sinking ship.
If you are staring at a leaning post or a gate that’s off its hinges, you don’t have to figure it out alone.
Call us at 801-905-8153 or Request a Free Quote today. At Utah Fencing Company, we can take a look, give you an honest assessment, and get your perimeter secure again. whether it’s a quick repair or a full replacement, we’ve got you covered.
